Rabanne Fall 2025: A Punk Takedown of Tasteful Bourgeois Dressing
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Rabanne may be known for jingly-jangly party clothes, but for fall 2025 designer Julien Dossena “wasn’t feeling the night,” as he said, reflecting on the turbulent times and constant barrage of information, which has made fashion month feel a bit like partying while the Titanic sank. “We found it a bit tough to design this season,” he admitted. In his funk, Dossena watched ’70s Fassbinder films, and listened to Sinéad O’Connor, which seeped into his punk-tinged takedown of tasteful bourgeois dressing. Trashy glam fashion icon Chappell Roan was front and center at the show, which was held in a thought-provoking place: the headquarters for UNESCO, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization dedicated to building a culture of peace and intercultural communication, among other things, which the U.S. has been an off-again, on-again member of in recent years. On the runway, the focus was on supersharp layers and rich textures seemingly exploding from the inside out, as Dossena put it. So a ’60s-formal ladylike tweed coat or delicate twinset busting out into a punk kilt with strips of leather or faux fur tails; two coats worn on top of each other buttoned and belted in such a way to reveal contrasting ’70s gaudy-good colors, tweeds and trims, or long, paneled skirts with flashy embroideries inside. You May Also Like He played with military uniforms, dandifying an army green suit with silver razzmatazz lapels, juiced up tailoring in an allover pill print (because who doesn’t need pills right now?), and played with fetish, encasing lace-and-mesh grunge slips in plastic. Adding more edge were layered-up earrings, combat boots, chunky Mary Janes, sequin socks and a new ladylike frame bag called “The Ring” with a pierced closure. It was a lot to take in, and a bit tricky to wear. Then again, that sounds a lot like the world in the year 2025. At least Dossena dared to reflect on it.
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